I cannot express how much I loved this place. It completely exceeded my expectations, and by the end of my trip I was seriously looking at apartments there! Don't be surprised if you see me living there at some point.
Puerto Escondido is the perfect destination for the adventurous and budget traveler. It is a backpacker town filled with young people from all over the world, so you will definitely meet lots of new people! The beaches are stunning, the food was incredible, and the locals were very welcoming. It is more off the beaten path than other popular Mexican destinations, so you will hardly see any resorts and it overall has cheaper prices. I enjoyed that it was not commercialized because the town has really kept its local charm.
I spent 9 days in Puerto Escondido and I had a mix of work and leisure. I spent half of my time volunteering at ViveMar and the other half was free time. I would recommend a minimum of three nights! For the details of my full experience volunteering with Vivemar, check out my blog here.
How to get there:
If you are flying from the US, you will likely fly from your local airport to Mexico City, then to the Puerto Escondido Airport. Puerto is a very small airport, so most flights coming from the US will have a layover. MEX is not the most luxurious airport to hangout in, so I would try to minimize your layover time if possible. I flew from San Francisco to Salt Lake City to Mexico City then lastly to Puerto Escondido. My flight was $180 one-way and it took about 8 hours from San Francisco to Puerto.
If you live in Southern California, you can fly directly from the Tijuana Airport to Puerto Escondido onVolaris airline. I did this on the way home and I would highly recommend it. This option was super fast and cheap. My flight was a little under 4 hours and only $90. Inside the terminal you will land in Tijuana, but you can use the Border Express to walk onto the US side. This is super convenient, safe and the airport is super nice! The TIJ airport is only 40 mins from San Diego. This was my first time doing it, but definitely not my last.
Neighborhoods:
La Punta: This was my favorite neighborhood and where I would recommend staying. There are a ton of adorable restaurants, cafes, shops and cocktail spots. I would cut out some time to just wander the streets here and check out all the cute boutiques/surf shops. If you need to work remotely, this is where you will find some internet cafes and coworking spots. The beach here is also gorgeous to lay out on or rent loungers from one of the restaurants. The nightlife here is mostly casual spots for a drink rather than dancing spots or late night bars. I spent the most time here and absolutely adore this neighborhood.
Rinconada: If you are looking for a more laid-back and less crowded area, this is a good choice. The main street is filled with restaurants, cafes, bars, and shops. This area is slightly more residential and less touristy than La Punta, but you will still find a handful of hostels and hotels here. This area was fun to explore with some great food options, so I would definitely add it to your itinerary! Here you will find the lovely Carrizalillio beach and Espadin restaurant, which are a must.
Zicatela: Although it is the most popular neighborhood for tourists, it is definitely still worth a visit. Zicatela is known for its many beach clubs where you can get a lounger for the day and join the lively nightlife. You will find many tourists and young people here. I didn't prefer this area as much for eating since some of the spots were quite touristy, but there are still some hidden gems. This can be a popular spot for surfing as well.
Bahia Principal: Situated right next to Zicatela, you will find a continuation of beautiful beach front restaurants and clubs. It's a great place for swimming,relaxing and you can rent lounge chairs here as well. The coastline is picturesque, lined with fishing boats and clear blue water. I enjoyed coming here for a sunset drink.
Baja De Chila: You likely will not find yourself here while on vacation since there are not many attractions, but since this is where I stayed at the volunteer house it is worth mentioning. There are a few small restaurants, and the streets are colorfully decorated with flags. It is mostly a residential area about 10 mins from the nearest beach.
Beaches:
Playa Carrizalillo: I loved this beach and would 100% include it in your trip itinerary. It is absolutely stunning. It is also one of the best spots for swimming and for beginner surfers! Do note, there is not a ton of "beach" to hangout on the sand, so you may have to pay for some lounge chairs or hope there is some free space if the tide is lower. It is also down a hefty amount of stairs, so be prepared for that! On the beach, there are a few food and drink options if you please as well. I loved my afternoon here!
Playa Zicatela: If you want to rent beach chairs or experience a lively atmosphere, this is the beach for you! There are many restaurants situated on the beach you can take your pick from. You will find a fairly young crowd partaking in beach volleyball, surfing and even some partying. It is far more mellow than anything you would witness in Cabo, but if you are looking for an upbeat beach spot, look no further. Be wary that the waves can get big here, but the water is still gorgeous.
Bacocho: For a gorgeous and less touristic beach, Bacocho is the spot. You will have to walk up and down a hefty hill, but it was worth it every time. There are hardly any beach loungers for rent here, so come prepared with your own towel and shade. Coming here for sunset is stunning as you will have an unobstructed view of the sun hitting the water.
Brisas De Zicatela: This is the closest beach to La Punta and a great casual spot to hangout at. There are a few beach chairs for rent, but most of the crowd is hanging here in groups on their own beach towels. This is a great beach for surfers as well. For swimming, the waves can get large, but manageable if you are a good swimmer.
To Stay:
I would recommend staying in La Punta or Rinconada! Keep in mind that when it comes to accommodations, you will not find as many luxury options. I saw many hotels and AirBnbs to my standard, but if you are looking for 5 star hotels and resorts this may not be the destination for you.
Selina Puerto Escondido: For most of my trip I was staying at the Vivemar volunteer house, but for my two additional nights I stayed at Selina. Selina is a hostel chain with locations globally. It attracts young travelers as they provide many activities, parties and social outings. If you are looking for a calm and quiet stay, I would maybe look elsewhere. Upon my arrival, there was a huge pool party going on (which I thought was fun!) so keep this in mind. It is a great property to meet others and in the heart of Zicatela. For the price the rooms were just alright, but I enjoyed the property amenities and location. Not to mention the view from my patio was stunning (as pictured)! I also felt very safe while staying here alone. All in all, it was a good experience, but I would likely stay at an AirBnb next time if I am staying for longer.
AirBnB: There are a plethora of fun AirBnbs in Puerto Escondido, and I will likely opt for this option on my next visit. Like I mentioned before, there are not a ton of nice hotels, so an AirBnb seems like the way to go here. There are lots of boutique surf hostels, which could also be a good alternative.
Casa Joseph Zicatela: On one of my walks, I came across this gorgeous hotel. Unfortunately, I didn't get the chance to actually stay here, but it is a stunning property right on the beach. The location is awesome in proximity to other areas. If you are looking for a luxury stay, this was the best option I saw in my time there.
To Eat:
If you love tacos, seafood and mezcal, get ready for the best culinary experiences.
La Olita- Zicatela/La Punta: I loved this place so much, I ate here twice! This is a great lunch or dinner spot for fish tacos, fresh guac and amazing drinks, all at reasonable prices. The portions were also very generous and I would recommend sharing some plates. There are two locations, both with the same menu, but I preferred the one in La Punta as it has a gorgeous beachfront location. I dream of these tacos!!
Malagua- La Punta: I would recommend Malagua for breakfast or brunch. The ambiance is adorable, the food is amazing, and the staff was great. The menu offers health conscious dishes and it is definitely more Americanized than traditional Oaxacan breakfast. I also loved it here so much I came twice. I enjoyed an amazing omelet, iced latte and smoothie. They also have internet and a working area upstairs, so it is a good place if you need to do some work.
Juana Mezcala- La Punta: This is the perfect cocktail spot for a Friday or Saturday night! It is a lively spot with amazing drinks and happy hour until about 8pm (2 for one drinks). They also had a live DJ, so I would highly recommend coming here to sit, chat, and enjoy the vibes with friends!
Café Ole- La Punta: Another amazing breakfast spot, you won't want to miss. The vibe was perfect for a laid back Saturday morning, a DJ was also there playing some fun, low-key music. A toast, coffee and smoothie was the perfect way to start my day! The portions are generous and everything my group ordered was great. We had 6 people and they were very accommodating for a group as well.
AMOKI Restaurant- La Punta: If you want a burrito, this is the place! It is super casual and a perfect stop if you are sandy from the beach. The burritos are HUGE and could definitely be split or made for two meals. The food was fantastic and this is a great dinner spot if you are looking for a budget meal. It is literally a little burrito shack you will find on the main street of La Punta. It is no frills, but the food speaks for itself!
El Espadín- Riconada: For a nice meal with a stunning view, look no further! It was the most expensive meal I had in Puerto, but even so, it only came out to ~$25. Espadin is part of a hotel that is situated high on the cliffs overlooking Playa Carrizalillo. The patio has a 180 degree view of the ocean and the water is stunning. The service was amazing, the ambiance was chic, and the food was amazing! For the views alone, this restaurant is a must. I would recommend going for breakfast or lunch, as it is slightly cheaper than the dinner selection, while just as gorgeous. From the main street in Riconada, it is about a 10 min walk.
Nene- Riconada: If you tired of tacos and traditional Mexican, Nene offers a unique and extensive menu. They have a wide menu including steaks, salads, burgers and ceviche. It is an open air restaurant right in the heart of Rinconada, with a gorgeous bar as well. I came here for dinner and loved everything! It is a little more expensive than the more local choices, but still reasonable.
Elephant Garden- Zicatela: Zicatela was not my favorite area for restaurants, but I loved Elephant Garden! They have a lovely garden patio (hence the name) and the ambiance is so peaceful. They specialize in healthy foods and juices. I came here by myself and enjoyed a light breakfast while reading my book in the garden!
El Cafecito- Riconada/Zicatela: Cafecito is a classic and well known restaurant,for good reason. I came once for breakfast and once for lunch,both times it was amazing. I would recommend Cafecito for traditional Mexican food. The portions are huge and the prices are very reasonable. The ambiance is nothing fancy, but it is a nice experience to sit and have a meal here. The chilaquiles were to die for.
La Principal Cantina de Mar- Bahia Principal: I came here on my first night for sunset and beachfront drinks. The ambiance is picturesque and it was very relaxing to just take in the beach views. The service was great and the drinks were awesome! It is a little more expensive than other spots since it is beachfront, but still to American standards is very affordable.
Other places that were recommended to me but I sadly didn't have time to try!
Chicama: This was highly recommended to me! Chicama is a slightly nicer restaurant offering Peruvian food which includes various seafood dishes and ceviche. It is in the heart of La Punta. I look forward to trying it next time. The ambiance looked very cute as well!
Fish Shack: Come here for fish tacos, seafood & mezcal! It is a very casual spot right near the beach, so it is a good spot to go if you need a quick bite but are still in your beach attire. The food looked amazing!
There are so many amazing restaurants, it is hard to make it to all of them! I can't wait to go back and try some more.
Things to Do:
Surf: Puerto is a very well known surf spot. Peak surfing season is from April to October, creating the famous "Mexican Pipeline" waves. The Mexican Pipeline is famous for producing massive barrels. There are also a few beginner surf spots and plenty of surf schools if you are looking to learn. In general, it is more of an advanced surf spot. I have some surfing experience, but while I was there the waves were huge, I did not even consider going in.
Release Sea Turtles: Have you dreamt of seeing baby turtles up close?Vivemar releases sea turtles everyday! It costs ~150 pesos which will go back to funding the nonprofit. This is the organization I volunteered with while in Puerto and they truly work so hard to save the turtles. They do releases at three different locations everyday, so I would definitely recommend penciling this into your itinerary. It is a great experience and for a good cause. Not to mention, watching all the turtles race into the ocean is the cutest thing ever.
Beach Clubs: If you want to kick back and relax with beachfront service, this is the best way to spend an afternoon! Usually the beach clubs will have a food and beverage minimum, or a fixed cost per lounge chair to rent. When you think of beach clubs, you may be envisioning huge party venues, like Vegas, but beach clubs here are merely beachfront restaurant spots with lounge chairs and drinks. Some of them can be more lively, but most of them are pretty laid back!
Shopping: There are tons of cute boutiques and surf shops. My favorite spot to shop was La Punta, but Riconada had some cute places as well. Benito Juárez Municipal Market is also a large market place with different vendor stalls. Most of the boutiques take card, but I would recommend cash for the Benito Market.
Yoga: Since it is very hot and humid in Puerto, it is the perfect conditions for some natural hot yoga. I did yoga at Barbarenas, and had the best experience! It was on the hillside with an amazing ocean view in a bungalow. There is no reservation required and it is only 150 pesos. I went with a friend and we were the only two people in the class! The instruction was awesome and for a semi-private yoga class the price was 100% worth it. If you are looking for some physical activity and relaxation, I would highly recommend a yoga class.
Fishing: If you like fishing, there are many companies that will take you out fishing for the day. You can go out in the morning, see the sunrise and hope to catch some big fish! You will likely also see dolphins, turtles, manta rays, and seabirds as well. It is common to find yellowfin tuna in this area.
Things to Bring:
Pesos: Many of the stores and services in Puerto were cash only (taxis, vendors, low cost transactions) so I would recommend ordering pesos from your bank beforehand.
Bug Spray: There are not very many bugs, but at night it is a good idea to wear bug spray to prevent mosquito bites. Some of the mosquitos carry illnesses, so it is good to avoid bites as much as possible. I didn't run into any issues.
Towel: I would bring a beach towel, depending on your accommodation. It is nice to have a beach towel in case you want to stop at the beach without having to pay for a lounger.
Sunscreen: You will have lots of time in the sun and the UV is very high. Bring and wear lots of sunscreen!
Reusable water bottle: The many places throughout town will have places for you to refill your water that is safe to drink. You will need to drink tons of water in the heat. I would recommend a water bottle that will keep your water cool! This is my fav bottle.
Books: There is access to Wi-Fi but it is limited bandwidth for anything more than texting. I would recommend a book or two for entertainment.
Overall, Puerto Escondido is a lovely place with amazing food, so much to do and beautiful scenery. In the next few years, I truly believe it will become one of the next "it" destinations, so I would visit now while it is still a bit of a hidden gem. I loved my time here and I will definitely be back!
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